Car and Driver (January, 2024)
63,333 mi
Earlier today, I met up with Kevin, and we drove to Julian. We discussed our cars for about 10 minutes, then I led the way to Pomerado Rd and Highland Valley Rd. After the twisties, I made an offer for him to drive my car, he said no and led the way to Julian.
That scenery has grown on me. With all consistent rides, it becomes familiar, and has deepened. It made me think of the south of France, maybe even Spain — shades of terracotta, rocks, patches of dull green, sometimes even dull red, swathes of land punctuated with trees and barns. Not barren. Not fields. Not rocks. It was something spectacular. Going behind slower cars made it still more beautiful.
I kept the engine cover on, but a notch open (6 folds of the blue towel, both sides). This greatly reduces the influx of hot air, even with windows rolled down. I found it not unpleasant to fully roll down the windows.
We departed Julian after I got two pies. He couldn’t find parking. There was a mother and a daughter, late high school age, who was very attractive to me. Then I drove to Lucy and Toby’s home for lunch. Joy soon will start her 2nd year of college and Grace will start her 3rd year of high school. The subject of AI seemed to explode the conversation.
Last night, I honored Porsche’s low windshield fluid warning and fill up at O’Riley’s, putting a gallon of the green stuff in.
61,675 mi
It’s Jul 4 and I really bonded with the car, going up new roads in la jolla (that I had just explored on my bike) in 2nd gear, getting the engine nice and warm, just putting in a lot of time into the car. I can’t describe what it is — and maybe it just happens to be that I love the way the car looks, especially with the windows rolled down, I could marvel at the idea of it.
I do want to note that since last weekend (I tend to drive the car only on Saturdays and Sundays), it makes a squeak noise when finishing 1st gear, and the squeak sound is louder and longer when I take off in 2nd gear. My intuition was that the rear main seal had prematurely failed, because I’m guessing the slip process is longer — but AI says it’s likely the throw out bearing.
The car feels fast, and in 2nd gear, once the engine rev hit 2 or 3k, the car really goes — the downside is that 2nd gear is so notchy that it is hard to take advantage of the rare moments, at about 30 or 40 mph, where you can really pull the engine up in 2nd gear. Rather, usually it’s 3rd gear that I’m using and I don’t have the wherewithal to get into 2nd fast enough. So in a way, this is a slow paced car, given the overall notchy-ness of the transmission.
Jul 4, 2026
60,851 mi
I’ve driven up to Orange County and back several times, and I’ve driven to Chula Vista and back for the Church services.
I think I’ve finally understood the nature of the transmission.
At times, the car seems to miss or lack a particular spark on speed. To the extent the Ford Fiesta ST has always felt faster, it now really does feel faster.
57,822 mi
I adjusted my short-shifter today — and what a world of difference it made. So unexpected!
I was puzzled why, since I got the car and had the Numeric stuff installed, 5th gear was consistently very, very smooth. Almost always. The gears for 1-4 and 6 would usually (but not always) grind. 5th was the miracle gear — almost always silky smooth.
I had the Numeric cables and short-shifter installed by a professional mechanic, who afterward told me the crunchy and stiff gear changes was attributable to wear-and-tear of the internals of the Getrag transmission. Ok, that was a sad thing to hear, and I didn’t accept it immediately because of the rather youthful age of the car (44k).
I had another mechanic, Alex, fiddle with it for about an hour, and that didn’t make any difference.
I knew the guys at Black Forrest could do it, and told me that the adjustment was somewhat tricky (they had experience!), but they charged a lot, so I stayed away.
A Bay Area car Youtuber, who owned the 987.1 Cayman, did say, in one video, that it took him a bit of fiddling to get the Numeric shifter dialed in, but I also somehow disregarded that. This was the best Xmas gift I could get for myself.
19 Dec 2025
57,191 mi
A month ago (Oct 23), I had Mark service the car. Good thing I felt like changing the rear brakes, and good thing Mark ordered the wrong parts. He ordered the wrong rotors, and I declined the process, but asked them to replace the sensors, which were correct. It turns out now the brake emergency light since May of 2025 has gone away. And it has stayed away (today is November 25th). The ordeal of not being able to identify the issue has lifted (but I still am not confident the issue has gone away, given how long I struggled with it).
The last month has been quite driver’s excellence, and I feel very comfortable with the car and the shifting. Alex drove it about a week ago before his departure to Europe.
56,040 mi
I completed about 1,200 mi last weekend for my August portraits sessions in Berkeley. The most notable part of the trip:
The shocks get very soft if the road texture is coarse, and firm up when the road surface is smooth.
I can’t really control this adjustment.
The steering wheel is very sensitive and vibrates probably due to a variety of interactions with the pavement — but on one stretch there was zero vibration.
The coolant tank leaked badly when I stopped at the top of a mountain, caused by the sudden increase in heat and no circulation.
54,310 mi
I like my car a little more having rented the 2016 Cayman. I like the 987 because:
Simpler interior design
Simpler dashboard
981’s dashboard is simple and uncluttered, and tells you what gear you’re in
Thinner steering wheel (better for my hands)
2016 Cayman (10k mi)
I had a chance to rent & drive a 2016 Cayman with about 10,000 miles for one day.
I put almost 100 miles on it and on return, forgot the refill the gas. It was most wonderful but most unexpectedly I got to revisit the hills of Berkeley, and gave me a perspective of my personal past that I did not possess for many years and had almost entirely forgotten.
About the car, what I liked: It was very clean and looked brand new, the host made it exceptionally clean. All the body panels fit perfectly. Aesthetically perfect. The interior was perfect. No sagging headliner. Still a minimalist, analog dashboard. The shifter knob was thicker at the contact point but thinner on the column. All the buttons the very firm.
The throws were quite short, and while the effort needed was fairly high, everything clicked. Shifting 2->3 and 3->4 were glorious and entirely consonant. I remember the feeling of almost an audible click when the shift was completed.
I have never really driven Caymans before and am always a little surprised at the size of the hatch that opens in the back. It’s this massive panel which probably needs substantial hydraulics to keep firm and open. The front opens nicely and the metal lid had dropped in weight since the 1998 edition I used to own.
The car sounded good, especially at lower RPMs. However, as I began to do more aggressive driving in the hills, I noticed the engine subjectively got quieter the closer I got to red line.
For a 2.7 L engine (at 275 hp), it felt as powerful as my 3.2 engine (280 hp), and perhaps even faster, due to the reduction of weight. It felt happier to rev up, whereas with my 987.1 S, sometimes I feel the engine is laboring at the higher cadence. However, I think both cars are designed for that. The milage was better than my 987.1 S, which I increasingly view to be an inefficiently designed engine and overall machine.
What was not ideal was a particularly stiff clutch pedal. As a person who daily drives a stick-shift car, my knee began to ache, and I am at the age and health where a driver shouldn’t experience pain or stress on the body. The steering was quiet stiff, and the body roll was so limited that I felt the spring rates could be dropped. As a person who really like stiff rides and stiff handling, even this car felt a little bit excessive. It turned out these qualities were enjoyable when touring the hills, but not enjoyable when commuting and trying to get through traffic. So, arguably, Porsche designed it correctly.
Would I buy the car? For some reason, I was left with the impression that I liked the bare simplicity of the 987 more. The 987 feels designed for a man of my height and build. Sometimes I feel bad that Porsche may have went against the comfort of taller and bigger men, but it seems they made the 981 for bigger people. The seat pulls very far back as if a NBA player would be interested in driving the car. The steering wheel had no buttons (which I absolutely like and prefer), but the wheel itself lacked cushion and had that smooth and textureless quality of good leather. I realize I prefer a very small steering wheel with textured (Alcantara) leather because it improves the driver’s communication with the car. I think the car had too much bling and while I liked the attention, I don’t think it was the car I would necessarily want to buy at this point of my life.
I drove it hard in the hills and stayed in 2nd gear, which made it feel a bit like a Tesla (fast acceleration, plenty of engine braking).
53,702 mi
Did an oil change! What I would do differently?
Sufficiently large container to for all oil.
Lifted rear higher (the wheel ramps are convenient, but insufficient clearance made the entire procedure somewhat uncomfortable).
These two would have made a big difference. I used a variety of pots and plastic bins, and now I have a lot to clean up.
Many of the tools got slippery once the oil came out.
The low torque settings (for oil filter, plug) meant I did not “hear” the torque wrench once I reached sufficient torque. This resulted in over-torquing the oil filter (by a lot), which was a hassle to un-torque and re-torque to spec. I was also concerned that by over-torquing, I may have damaged the threads of the oil filter container.
Unexpected joy:
I liked pouring the oil into the disposal bin, and squeezing the paper towels, immersing my hand in the warm oil.
I liked the smell of it all (weirdly enough).
I genuinely like seeing and feeling parts of my car that aren’t accessible in every day life.
Next time:
Lift car sufficiently high.
Find spacious, large bucket to hold used oil (not multiple pots)
Use gloves
Use a new washer and nut (be careful not to strip)
Avoid over-torquing and realize everything gets harder when oil touches the contact surface.
Buy a container that measures the oil.
53,520 mi
I popped the check brake light while driving home from Duckfoot Brewery.
53,403 mi
My finals ended on Wednesday, and I have driven my Boxster once again the last two days.
First is the general note that finishing finals (my 4th since starting LS), produces a feeling of ease that is seldom there if I didn’t have finals.
I drove down to TJ yesterday at dusk (I now love cruise control), and then to Scripps Ranch (passing through the road we used to take when I was very little).
I drove to La Jolla but left my keys at home to get inside.
Going down Mt. Soledad at night, I practiced double-clutch into 2nd gear. I think I understand this much better. I’ve always been confused by the shifting CAN be smooth, but also CAN but grind-y. I think there are two components, the synchros (which help rev match the internal gears) as well as something else (may teeth, or sleaves) that guides the gears into being fully meshed. I think both are pre-maturally worn out. Dual-clutch helps avoid the issue with the synchros, but doesn’t help with the worn teeth.
Here is a list of important (difficult) repairs I’ve done for my Boxster (since in 2022):
(Water pump)*
AOS
Front left radiator
Oil change
Windshield fluid pump
New wipers
(Short-shifter, new shift cables)*
Parking brake tension adjustment
Transmission oil
“Desnorkel” modification
Engine air filter
Coilovers (4 shocks replacement)
* indicates that I paid for it, but know enough so that in the future I could do these myself
52,833 mi
My car threw its first check engine light today (April 8, 2025).
First of all: I have enjoyed 525 days of ownership without a check engine light. This is good!
For a 2005 car with many prior owners!
My OBE II reader (Ultragauge) stated: P0456.
Update (4/12/25): I resolved the CEL by buying a new gas cap. Very easy! Thank you ChatGPT.
In other news: the car’s been fantastic. The new tires finally feel drilled in, and the car is handling alright. Shifting is smoother when I do engine blips (which I tend NOT to do because I want to save gas).
51,246 mi
Jan 23, 2025. I am satisfied to report that yesterday ends the saga since the coil-over installation.
It took a full day for the guys at Independent Motorcars to get to my alignment, and they got it right.
Pro Align did not get it right. It handled a little better, but the steering wheel would migrate clockwise. Steering was not predictable.
Clarence Brown really messed it up. They were my first alignment shop, and they did nothing right. I waited the entire week of Christmas break (they were off!) to have them do it. I should have had Independent do it right there and then, save me the headaches.
Basically the car never handled well after Clarence Brown changed the alignment settings (post-coil-over). They took no fault, and when the mechanic drove it, he noted the car deviated to the right, and blurted, “I don’t like this car.” At the shop he said, “Look me in the eye . . . the previous owner may have gotten into an accident. The subframe might be damaged.” My heart dropped and I thought my father and I fucked up the rear right when trying to get the camber bolt out.
The car is now back to normal — it fact it handles better than ever. It is a sensitive thing. My left hand can glide lightly over the steering wheel and feel a slight tug on the left or right when turning. I think toe-in for the front is a good thing.
I’ve put the engine cover and sound dampening back it (though I do prefer the raw sound of the engine).
Lesson learned: Go to a trusted Porsche specialty shop to get an alignment.
49,920 mi
I started the day after my last final and it took six days for us to take off the old springs and struts and replace them with the Ohlins R&T coil-overs.
Thoughts:
It was hard work — my shoulders and arms got sore.
There was no need to remove the CV nut (32mm), but the socket was helpful as a counter-hold when removing the six bolts attaching drive-axle to transmission
Removing the rear bumper helped but took additional time and effort
The eccentric bolt connecting coffin arm and chassis is very strong, but it shouldn’t be pulled out unless the wheel is holding weight
Overall we kept everything safe — no weird events.
Areas for improvements:
Containers for each socket (18mm, 19mm, etc)
Lift the car slightly more
Use one hand to press the socket/allen into the part (avoid stripping)
Errors made:
The T40 counter-hold for the left outer tie rod was sheared
A picklefork and hammer pierced the rubber bushing for the right lower control arm
I stripped the top of the rear right Ohlins coilover (must used T40 instead of 6mm allen key)
This is minor, but I accidentally place the floor jack off axis for the right-rear, and it slipped — I also left the wooden box under the car when lowering the vehicle (didn’t check to see what was under the car)
Stripped the bolt connecting chassis to right-rear lower control arm.
Accidentally let rear bumper touch paint, creating a minor scratch.
49,570 mi
Here's a one year anniversary post —
Car purchased on Halloween of 2023.
Car is doing well.
Put about 5,000 miles in one year.
No CELs so far, no repairs needed.
Tires are great — need to replace eventually, due to age (tires made in late 2019).
Brakes and brake feel are strong.
No discernible oil leaks.
No steering wheel vibrations.
No discernible coolant leaks, no issues with temperature — though randomly, three times I saw a splatter of pink fluid on the driveway as the car was starting up.
Minor repairs in the first year of ownership:
Windshield fluid pump*
New windshield wipers*
Parking brake adjustment*
Replaced transmission oil (SAE 75W-90) in the gearbox*
Standard oil change (47,236 mi)
New cabin air filter*
New engine air filter* (went with OEM paper filter)
New rear sway bar bushings*
Minor upgrades:
Numeric shifter cables
Numeric short-shifter
Upgrade stock muffler (via Carnewal)
Rubber mats
Car cover
Interior LEDs
Ultragauge OBDII reader
Tinted windows
De-snorkel*
That’s about it! I have replacement transmission mounts, engine mount, shock tops, parking brake shoes — all discretionary upgrades to be performed in the next month or two.
The shifting is better is cold weather, and when the car is not in stop-and-go traffic — the reasoning now being the synchros are a bit worn and hotter oil temperatures result in less frictional “cling” during engagement. Perhaps there are transmission oil or additive that can address this, but the best part is that the car will perform well as long as the car is moving.
The first gear totally makes sense — the trick is to actually fully stop, get into first gear as quickly as possible, then get ready to take off — as opposed to staying in 2nd gear, gradually slowing down but never stopping, and then trying to get into 1st gear while moving. That produces the “hard” shift which feels almost like damaging internal pieces in the gearbox.
*Performed myself.
48,785 mi
I’ve daily driven this car since September 3rd, after the Cordova event. Here are my weekly MPGs:
18.81 mpg
17.23 mpg
19.71 mpg
21.76 mpg
I drove 809 miles in four weeks, or 200 mi/week, translating to 10,500 miles per year.
The car is powerful, but not quick. This is because (1) the power doesn’t peak until around 4-6k rpm, which takes time, and (2) downshifting isn’t easy. Downshifting is somewhat unenjoyable, as there is a tendency for the shifter to grind into gear.
48,444 mi
To date this is the best my car has handled. I lowered the front tire pressure to 29.5 psi, and increased the rear to 38 psi. This lopsided-ness was my guess at the weight distribution (the door panel says 32/37). Yet I immediately noticed a difference, and driving to La Mesa today and to campus was fantastic. My windows stay down the entire time. Maybe a new engine air filter was sorely needed (the engine feels the same, maybe a little better as it breathes better).
I tried out the AC as I had just installed the cabin air filter, and overall I think it is going well.
The mechanic at CMS emailed me back, and said it is not wise to downshift into first gear if the car is moving faster than a jogging pace, so this helps normalize expectations. Gears 2nd, 3rd, and 4th still produce inconsistent shifts that may grind, or click, and 1st can truly be a b**** to go into (it feels like I am going to break something, it requires so much force). Otherwise, the car is driving better than ever.
48,200 mi
I put the 987 in “service mode” of the first time. I implemented a nearby bungee cord to hold the fabric and rear panel in place. I then removed the front panel, and first the first time, looked at the front side of the engine, the transmission cables, and the feel of the serpentine belt.
I replaced the air filter with an oil-coated filmter purchased several months ago. This was difficult. I tried several times and had to take breaks. Working on car is difficult. There are many reasons. You have to be careful not to hurt yourself. You shouldn’t drop any equipment on the car. You can’t lose track of equipment. You can’t lose track of parts once you started. Things that should be dirty get dirty. You can cuts from the sharp edges inside the car. A replacement may be simply in theory but the position of your arms and legs, or the confined geometry, makes this difficult.
And so on. It’s a “30 minute job” — for somebody who has done it before.
I put the seatbelt holder, which was removed several months ago. I gave up on the lower screw when I noticed this wasn’t used on the right side (compression was enough to make everything snug).
Sometimes the best thing to do (which is very hard at that very moment) is to stop, relax, take a break, and not expect to solve the problem.
48,006 mi
Just crossed the 48,000 mark yesterday, while driving home from campus. I stared at the odometer waiting for it felt like two or three miles before the numbered switched, after that point it had gained four or fives the next time I looked.
I do realize I am at times persnickety about the car’s feel and quality (as mentioned below) but I am just so grateful for the car right now that my appreciation is back to an eight or nine out of ten, if not a nine or nine and a half.
47,274 mi
Just returned from the SLO weekend trip with the Ford Fiesta. I changed cars at 1329. Third year at times feels like two shifts, and 2nd gear continues to be very much a slow, mushy grind. It happens enough to be a nuisance and certainly takes away from the enjoyment of the car.
47,017 mi
Some observations:
The car squeak and rattles over uneven pavement.
The driver-side’s door rattles when closing it (a 100-200 millisecond rattling vibration/sound).
To locate the source of these sounds, I removed the wind blocker; two mesh panels seats. I zip-tied the seat-belt junctures.
The rattles didn’t go away! With the roof down, the rattles seemed to get louder.
Then I noticed the door shook when going over bumps — that this shaking may be causing the rattle.
I went in the garage and shook the driver door, and it rattled. Ah-ha, the door is shaking. I did this on the passenger side, and it did not shake. That door is solid (and sounds great when closing it). Then I wondered if the car was ever in an accident, and the door was mis-aligned on the left.
I took the most compressible material in my home (my pajama pants) and closed the door with one layer. This reduced the play! Then with two layers, the driver door basically did not shake. No play. This was good. But I don’t want to drive with pajamas sticking out of the door! So then I discovered that the door is basically held in place by a single connection, anchoring the door to the body by something called a “door striker.” This door striker can be adjusted. So then my hypothesis was that a door does not rattle when the rubber pushes the door outward, against the striker. Without enough compression, there will be play. A distribution of rubber is compressed, sealing the car from the outside.
As an improvement, I added a thin layer of gaffer’s tape to the striker itself, increasing its width. It immediately caused the door to really “thud” into place. I added just two loops to the passenger’s side, and this entirely removed the play of the door when closed. So this connection seems important.
I look forward to testing these modifications on road.
Update: this helped a lot.
About the transmission:
Shifting into first gear sometimes requires a lot of strength. Sometimes there is an awful crunch-y feeling. But at times it’s effortless and glides right in. It islike constipation v. normal bowel movement.
Why is the shifting so inconsistent? Why does it grind?
For me, it doesn’t seem to matter if the car is warm or cold (some commentators say warming the transmission helps).
So I hypothesize that: (1) the input shaft must synchronize with the output shaft. (2) The output shaft (its rotation angle) is controlled movement of the car. (3) The input shaft isn’t known, but get randomized when the car is placed in neutral and the clutch released (a randomizing due to engine idling). (4) The poor shifting results from faults angle when the input and output shafts meet.
What this means, is now attempt to feel my way into first gear. If I can feel a lot of resistance, I will “randomize” the input shaft by putting the car in neutral and releasing the clutch pedal. This forces the input shaft to move at the speed of the engine, not connected to the output shaft. I’ll attempt to get into first again. This greatly helps avoid the crunchy shifts — implying that inconsistent shifting roughness is associated with a particular angle of connection.
46,856 mi
I’ve been driving that car more quickly, particular around corners. This is a great car. The transmission is still intermittently stiff and crunchy (not smooth). First gear at times is quite bad — 1/10 (very discomforting) — but sometimes 9/10 (very smooth, effortless).
Perhaps the 1st gear synchro is unevenly worn out. When it feels very stiff, I will put the car back into neutral, randomize the input/output connection, and then if I am lucky it gets smoother.
We did the parking brakes last weekend. It was an adjustment issue, not the lifespan of the pads. Now the parking brake is stronger (went from 3/10 to maybe 8/10, activates after 6-8 clicks). I’ve tried the parking brake trick when paused on an uphill and it works!
46,555 mi
Fixed the windshield fluid pump today with Dad.
Had to remove the front-left wheel, undo the plastic lining, then wrangle the fluid reservoir out.
We cleaned and waxed the car. It was my first time applying the convertible foaming cleanser on the fabric top.
We also placed the center console back in, which was trickier than expected. But everything fit snugly, nothing wiggles.
I measured the front caliper to be about 28mm (at the lip). The recommended replacement is 26mm.
After wrapping up some piano practice on Lifeguard Tower 32, I lowered the convertible top and blasted out of La Jolla. The car sounds better without the top up!
46,400 mi
The folks at Black Forrest took it for a drive, said the transmission works as intended, actually is quite smooth.
Basically the “short” and “shortest” settings are too short for this transmission. What it needs is the “longest” setting, which creates the longest throw and longest lever arm.
First is still requires the force. 2nd is still inconsistently crunchy. 4th is somewhat inconsistent but now much better, and 3rd is good. 5th is hardly ever used, and 6th is fine.
I love the way the car sounds — when I am standing behind the car!
46,130 mi
Just replaced the transmission oil.
It went very smoothly and without any hitches. It took two hours and 15 minutes, from start to finish. I just went for a drive and am shocked how much smoother it shifts. [Correction: I’ve put about 25 miles since and have to say the improvement is about 50% better — not perfect, third and fourth gear still crunch, but overall much smoother].
I used the OEM transmission oil, which I purchased from Pelican Parts in late January.
3 Liters, genuine OEM 75W90 ($33.37 x 3)
Transmission drain plug ($9.19)
The replacement plug but actually didn’t fit (I think), so I re-used the two plugs.
I now must dispose of the old transmission oil, and clean up the orange cooking pot, which I used to catch the old fluid. Should take about 25 minutes.
I really enjoyed this experience. Since January, I have been flustered by the inconsistent and crunchy shifting I noticed since the short-shifter and cables were installed. Yesterday I pulled apart the center console and raised the Numeric short-shifter to the highest position (effectively making it a “long” shifter).
Now that the transmissions have been resolved, I think, I can work on the parking brake, windshield wiper fluid pump, and potentially the small scratches to the paint and front-right wheel.
Some rules when working on a car
1. Always wear gloves.
2. Always wear shoes.
3. Wear the same shirt and shorts, which you expect will get dirty.
3. Always be ready to concede.
4. Take your time.
5. Read two interpretations of the same instructions.
6. Have plenty of alcohol and paper towels easy to access nearby.
7. Bring all your tools.
8. Put your tools back entirely where you found them
9. Clean off any oil or residue.
10. Maintain reasonable expectation. Some attempts to improve performance or fix an issue will not create the desired result, despite best efforts. Keep the steps written on a piece of paper, and be very careful about anything you take off the car. Kind of like surgery.
Miniscule flaws
There was a very good video posted on YouTube where a car host asked Porsche owners what they disliked about their car. He got many responses; if I were to add some of mine:
Gears shifting can be tough/rough.
The interior creaks. For this I tend to drive with both windows rolled down.
There is a vague fear something is going to break. Maybe it comes from owning a 1998 Boxster, but I just feel things are going to break. The water pump is going to die, the IMS will suddenly fail, the convertible mechanism is delicate so I don’t use it very often.
The plastic scratches easily.
It is never loud enough when I want it to be loud, and it is never quiet when I want to be discreet. Often, I can only hear my car’s engine when there is a large concrete wall bouncing back the sound waves. Otherwise, I am making noise and can’t even enjoy them myself.
Not efficient. For many reasons my commute to school and to grocery stores and coffee shops is better suited for an electric vehicle. A gasoline car is always trying to get up to operating temperature. The MPG is really not ideal, so it is environmentally and economically inefficient. There are many stop lights and stop signs, and uphills and downhills.
For all the glory of Porsche engineering, the car doesn’t handle as tight as I would like. I am definitely on a search for a beautiful and nimble car. Everybody says the Boxster/Cayman is a nimble car, even more better handling than the 911. Yet when I am turning or going around a corner, I feel the car should respond better, and the shocks should react quicker, although I don’t exactly even know what the ideal result should look or feel like.
46,004 miles
Most Americans can’t drive a manual car. U.S. News and World Report. Why learn?
First, they are fun. I love the feeling you can throw the car is neutral at any time. I love the friction when the friction plate begins to connect and enter the transmission.
It took some time to learn — but as everybody says, it becomes intuitive and you don’t have to think about it.
Do I still stall? Yes, usually when I am feeling very fuel-efficient-y and protective of the clutch. So the light turns green, and I’ve released the clutch without adding any gas.
I now drive two cars w/ six speed gearboxes. At least to me they enhance the daily driving experience. I get to experience the car in a completely new and raw way compared to an automatic. I need that physical action. My left foot controls the clutch, my right foot is on the gas, the left hand is steering, and the fourth changes the gears. There is so much more going on, and you really understand the car’s movement, braking, etc better.
Second, the manual gearbox is lighter, so it get better milage.
Third, keeps you focused on the road. Automatics make driving too simple and it is easy to forget you are pushing >3000 lbs on the road.
Fourth, if you travel to Europe or South America, you will likely rent cars that are outfitted with a manual gearbox.
Engine braking
You can mitigate wear-and-tear on your brakes by shifting into a lower gear (ex. 4 -> 2, 3 -> 2) while coasting downhill.
Most of the time when you go down a hill, on a car, on the same commute, you know when you may eventually have to brake (usually at the traffic light, or stop signs).
But one neat feature if that for long descents, you can handle most the braking with your engine.
For instance, as I prepare to coast down Balboa Avenue, on my commute to school, there is a stretch in which no stops occur.
In the past I would wait till reaching the traffic light to enter 2nd or 3rd gear.
Now, I just decide to not shift up. That way, I am already in the best gear for “engine-braking.”
Another example: on quiet nights or early mornings I like to engine brake when descending Via Capri, in La Jolla, and as long as nobody in front of being is going too slow, I don’t need to hit my brakes.
I don’t have to downshift while rolling to the stop — which itself takes a bit of skill and invariably increases risk of wearing out the clutch.
The longer your hill, the more “life” you save on your brakes and rotors.
I have heard misgivings that (1) engine-braking wears out the engine, as it is forced to up into an (uncomfortably) high rev range, and (2) it wears out of the transmission, and (3) it is bad for fuel economy.
All of these three, I am most certain #3 is a myth. When you don’t hit the accelerator, there is no excess fuel injected into the engine. #1 is almost likely a myth, because cars are designed to handle all revs as long as the internal temperature remains not elevated. And #2 is likely not a myth if you shift poorly; and it is likely not relevant if you shift excellently (like being in the proper gear before gaining speed on the downhill).
It is enjoyable to learn how to engine brake; enjoyable if you like to hear the sound of your engine; and good for your wallet to reduce wear-and-tear on of your rotor/pads.
If these arguments don’t persuade more drivers to engine brake, how about safety? If you engine brake, you effectively get two methods of deceleration — not trivial in dangerous or risky situations.
For instance, if a drunk pedestrian comes out of no-where and I am already in a low gear, I will hit my standard brakes and avoid the accident, or at least reduce the speed of impact.
45,850 miles
Just drove to North Park and back. The car is marvelous, beyond words.
If I had to choose again; here are thoughts between the Boxster (987) and Cayman (987):
Both cars are well-made and *not* unreliable.
The Cayman was introduced in 2006 as a hard-top version of the Boxster. Initially blessed with a larger engine (3.4 L v. 3.2 L), they now share the same internals.
Due to its soft top, the Boxster has a louder cabin, especially noticeable on freeways. One unexpected benefit is that I can usually hear cars in the blindspot on my left side. The disadvantage is that the wind sound is constant and increases with speed, taking away from the softer notes when listening to music. The advantage is being able to drop the top and see everything above you.
Because the hardtop resists flexion, the Boxster is also not as rigid as the Cayman. This is why the Cayman is considered more of a purist’s car. Yet this likely matters on aggressive cornering. The boxster is stiff enough to satisfy many, as there are competitions in which only the spec boxster is allowed.
Both cars are fairly reliable, but require routine maintenance, which can be costly. The known flaws include the water pump and thermostat, the air oil separator (AOS), and the rear main seal going bad.
Regular maintenance includes engine oil changes, brake pads and rotors, windshield wipers, transmission oil, tires, pneumatic shocks holding the rear and front trucks, shocks, clutch replacement, and so forth. For some years the IMS (intermediate shaft bearing) was a problem, and on some models, cylinder bore scoring is a known problem. These issues have been discussed extensively on blogs and online car forums.
My 1998 Boxster (986.1) had serious issues with the retractable roof and eventually the parts wore out, and it stopped working. The Cayman obviously does not have this as an issue.
I have been in Boxsters where the door handles have degraded. I have driven Boxsters where the steering wheel shakes uncomfortably at certain speeds (thanks, Carvana). I have owned a Boxster which had cooling issues, where the coolant temperature always sat above somewhat the mid-point, and coolant leaked from the front left. I had the water pump go bad on the 986, which was slightly terrifying at times.
For all these reasons, it may not be practical to use a Boxster or Cayman as a daily driver. Also, adding miles sharply reduces the resale value of these cars. However, this is not uncommon, because they are fun and mostly dependable cars.
Right now, I should replace the transmission oil, replace the parking brake shoes, and replace the windshield fluid pump. The seat belt does not retract easily on my side, but it is not functionally bad. But otherwise, I have owned the car for almost five months and had not had a check engine light (CEL) yet (fingers crossed).
If you want advice on choosing a Boxster, I am more than happy to help.
Feb 2, 2024
45,679 miles
Still wonderful.
I had the short shifter installed in January. However, this lead to a significant amount of crunchy shifts, especially into 2, 4, and 6th gears.
I went back to Independent Motorcars yesterday, and they suggested contacting CMS which specializes in Porsche transmission repairs.
I went to Black Forrest last week, but they wanted 2 hours of labor just to check on whether it was adjusted properly. I kindly declined.
The car makes a metallic rattling sound at low speeds (typically in 3rd gear, when the engine is quieter, and around 8-15 miles per hour). From under the car. It sounds like a tin spoon tapping against a thin aluminum cup.
Because 4th gear is so inconsistent and crunchy (therefore it creates discomfort), I have skipped it.
Often I start the car in 2nd gear (but not if the street is sloped upward). I have gotten more comfortable switching across multiple gears. For instance, going from 1 -> 3 -> 5, or going from 2 -> 6 (when getting on the freeway).
I have not made any repairs or upgrades on the car, but would like to address the parking brake, windshield fluid pump, and LED lights after finals.
I would also like to get some of the clear coat scratches removed, the deep scratch in the front fixed, and the plastic restored to a newer look.
Coilovers would be great, and I should list the current stock suspension on Ebay.
45,140 miles
I went up to Long Beach on Saturday, then up to Culver City and back down the 5. A total of 277 miles, ugh!
Marcus had a look at the car. So did Hudson. Hudson was able to go around the block and only stalled once.
The car makes a bit of interior noise, and with both windows rolled down over 65 miles per hour, there is an audible whine or whistling sound from the right window (but not left).
The car “floats” a bit on the freeway (not super precise). I am curious if rebuilding the shocks will have an impact.
The car is still great. I drove a 914 yesterday, which was quite nice because it provides great contrast with modern cars. I sat in Hudson’s 991 to the coffee shop, which was nice but his car was kind of dirty inside and outside. I’ve done 800 miles since I purchased the car, so at this rate I’ll be driving about 6100 miles per year.
17 Dec, 2023
10 Dec, 2023
It’s a great car. It’s delightful to drive at night with the windows rolled down. I went to campus to drop off a book just because I wanted to drive the car.
The car seems to have those interior noises when the windows are rolled up, which is maybe why I always roll the windows down.
I went for a drive today through the La Jolla neighborhoods, and realized this was pretty much exactly what I did when I learned to drive in high school. Going up Nautilus and then going into the Muirlands areas and north. I just just biked those road. Driving is different. It’s just really cool seeing all the houses, the very new homes and the ones that have been there forever.
I am now reminded that I test drove three 987 Boxsters before this purchase. One was an actual purchase through Carvana (2009 Base). That car was poorly maintained, and had significant steering wheel vibrations over 40 miles per hour. I tested one in Clairemont mesa (also a base, silver, felt unremarkable and an issue). The third was a very well-cared Boxster from 2012, also Base, and that one was pristine. The guy who owned it was apparently very protective of his identity. The car did not feel fast. The steering was very heavy (perhaps too heavy), and the colors were not my taste (blue paint, blue convertible top—just too much blue). I am quite happy with this vehicle and hoping it stays like this for some time.
44,758 miles
I had Dualtone Muffler Brake and Alignment install the Carnewal GT catback exhaust upgrade. The modified exhaust arrived on Wednesday night from Belgium. He shipped it on Monday, from Belgium, which makes the delivery time insanely fast.
I called Dualtone this morning and drove by and said they could get me in immediately. I watched as the mechanic lifted the car and removed the exhaust on each side. It’s funny that each muffler has two exit pipes, and the top exit pipe connects to the top exit pipe of the bilateral muffler, and the bottom pipes combine and exit the car in the ending.
The car sounds far more alive. I really like the low, raspy sound at low RPMs as I often don’t feel the need to go above 4000 rpm. The sound was so nice I felt tickled by it. I was also surprised at how much lighter the modified exhaust is compared to stock. I presume Gert slices them open, removes the baffling devices, and then welds it back together. It’s so much more affordable than the other options, which are easily over $1000 and often $2000. This way I don’t have to worry about what to do with the old exhaust, I just have to ship it back to Gert to get 700 euro back.
I have my iPhone back so Carplay works, and I don’t need to plug it in, it synchronizes wirelessly.
1 Dec 2023
44,702 miles
Just crossed 44,700 miles. What a great car! I drove to Encinitas for a Porsche club meet-up. I met a guy name Zee and Jerry. Jerry has the same car as me in silver. He works at an auto shop and asked if I would join a boxster club on Facebook.
Overall, the car is fantastic. I looked at all the Porsche 911s and thought I have the best car, even if price is ignored. I just like my car. The suspension is sensitive to any irregularities on the road. The engine sounds great, although at high rpms it feels a bit quiet or tame.
One minor misgiving are squeaking sounds inside the car when the convertible top is up. I hear them every now and then and don’t yet know how to eliminate these.
There is always a little fear the convertible mechanism will break (that having happened on my 986.1), so taken the convertible top down only about three times.
The braking is pretty good, not razor sharp, and I always try to engine brake if I have time to downshift.
The suspension characteristics seem to improve after the car has warmed up. I’ve always had a feeling that shocks operate best after a certain temperature, although I need to talk to a mechanic or engineer if this is true.
I strongly follow the rule that the engine should achieve operating temperature is quickly possible. But the engine should not be rev’d when it isn’t warm.
The sixth gear feels a little short, which is nice because you get a good amount of power in it, and can pass cars on the freeway without having to go to 5th or 4th. But it also seems inefficient if I am traveling over 75 miles per hour on the freeway.
I think the gearing on the car is very sensible, and have no complaints about it.
I learned how to put the car cover on efficiently. I’ve taped the rear left with pink tape, and roll up starting from the front (unroll starting from the rear). The first few times were difficult because there was no way of knowing which side was the front or back. However, it comes with little divots for the mirrors, which are quite nice – the overall fit is quite nice, but the material seems thin.
I have noticed the Bose sound system is on the quiet end. While driving at about 40 mph, I had to crank up the volume to 38 or 39 out of 40. I drive almost exclusively with the windows down.
It is quite nice to enter the car and hear music as soon as the keys are inserted.
I don’t know why this was the case with my car, and the 986 I previously owned, and the 986 I rented: sometimes turning the key to start the ignition produces nothing. Sometimes I have to take the key out and try again.
I remember when I was younger I would use paper towels to clean the hood of the Volvo S80. And now I find myself doing the exact same thing. It seems inefficient but I like ensuring the car is as spotless as possible before putting the cover on, so that the cover doesn’t pick up a film of dust or residue over time.
I keep thinking the black cloth for the convertible isn’t the best color. Replacement options include red, blue, and tan.
I listed the Porsche OEM carpet mats on Ebay a few weeks ago, and hope to sell them soon in order to purchase rubber mats.
There are no cooling issues, engine noises, clutch issues, steering wheel vibrations at any speed, tachymeter issues at idle, electrical issues, window or convertible issues. The only issue is that the windshield wiper fluid is not ejected, and I hope after finals I’ll have time to diagnose it and hope it’s just a burnt fuse. I have stalled twice since purchasing the car.
26 Nov 2023
44,352 miles
First Impressions
Coolant temperature just right of center. 44.352k miles when purchased.
Gears change nicely. Turning is fantastic. Much more power than 2.5 L. (Very noticeable throughout all gears). No steering wheel vibrations on smooth surfaces (very minor at some speeds). Air whirling sound with AC turned up.
Interior door handles very solid, no laxity (but cheap plastic, will likely break over time). Engine sounds very nice, particularly low RPMs. 6th gear is awesome. Normal fabric door mats not bad, do not slip like in 986.
So much cheap plastic (car keys, door handles, likely the shifter itself too). Bose sound is very nice, significant improvement over 986.1. Back up camera is a win, grateful last owner installed it. Digital screen is an improvement (not laggy like other cars). Steering wheel is an improvement (thinner, smaller diameter, no cushion). Hand-pulled chair is better than electrical operated in 2011 987.2. Exhaust is pretty good, not sure I want a very loud car. The dashboard computer actually works, shows average speed and mpg, kind of wish it showed more.
Clutch pedal is easy, have not stalled yet. 19” wheels look awesome.
$60,600 in 2005, so $96,500 in 2023 dollars. Brisk (plenty of power in 1.8-2.5k range), do not have to downshift often. Bigger brakes helpful (318mm, 299mm). Convertible mechanism works. Rear spoiler activates Litronic headlights are improvement. Six speeds is better than five. Has glove compartment, which has a pen holder (I put a pen in it).
Window roll-down buttons are properly located. Suspension is very firm, very sensitive to minor undulations on road or rough surface. I am always avoiding potholes, searching for smooth pavement. Power windows roll up at same speeds (did not in my 986.1). Window drops work (no friction point on passenger window). Clutch pedal must be fully depressed for gears to shift smoothly. Wireless remote for locks and trunks (986.1 lacked this) is an improvement.
Also, the heated seats are HOT and it heats up FAST, which is good.
Cup holders are very sturdy and nice. Seats are pretty good. Tachometer sits at around 620 rpm at idle. Engine braking is fantastic. Glass rear window! The car is in immaculate condition, Iain was right. The steer wheel is very sensitive to road conditions (will not vibrate if the road is perfectly smooth, but most roads are not perfectly smooth). The current shifter is already really good, not sure if I need a short shifter upgrade.
1 Nov 2023